Well I left some good friends in Wellington and again remembered the worst side of travelling - saying goodbye, but I knew the South Island was going to live up to my high expectations and it certainly has. The ferry crossing to Picton was incredibly bumpy and after 3 hours we arrived at the ferry terminal. I took the bus down through the Marlborough Valley where we sampled some very agreeable Riesling & Rose wines and it would have been remiss of me not to taste the famous Havelock Greenshell mussels, they were delicious. So a pretty good introduction to the South Island before making our way down to Nelson, gateway to the Abel Tasman National Park. The drop in temperature was noticeable at this stage and I needed to purchase a few extra items of clothing. From here, I worked my way down the West Coast which I can honestly say has some of the most stunning scenery I have seen to date. The Nelson Lakes National Park was breathtaking but even I wasn't brave enough to take a dip in the freezing waters of Lake Rotoiti. Arriving in Westport, I decided to give the quad biking a try at Buller Gorge and wasn't quite sure why when I was psyching myself up to drive down a vertical slope of mud without flipping the bike! On to Tauranga Bay where we witnessed one of New Zealand's largest seal colonies before arriving at the Pancake Rocks & Blowholes (named because the limestone stacks have been eroded over thousands of years to resemble giant piles of neatly stacked pancakes). The noise was deafening when the blowholes exploded and I was glad to be watching from above. Moving down through Greymouth to Lake Mahinapua, we prepared ourselves for one of the legendary 'Poo Parties' - our fancy dress theme was plastic bags & I was obviously with some very creative travellers, the outfits were unbelievable, my attempt to make a dress from a chocolate scented bin liner earned me the prize of a Jagerbomb (I am now hooked) and we also sampled some of the famous West Coast venison (or as they refer to it - bambi). Franz Josef was my next stop and I continued to put myself outside my comfort zone by taking a helicopter ride up to the Fox Glacier (I think I am slowly overcoming my fear of flying) and then hiked through brilliant blue ice caves and pinnacles for a couple of hours, another one of my highlights so far. The reflection of Mount Cook on Lake Matheson on our way to Wanaka was beautiful, the only regret was that I was a month too early for the ski season. Set on the edge of Lake Wanaka and surrounded by the spectacular scenery of Mount Aspiring National Park, this relaxed small town was somewhere I felt I could settle. Queenstown was the next destination and I knew this was going to be a party town. We stopped at the Kawarau Bungy site for one of our group to throw themselves off the original bungy bridge and I surprised myself at having the urge to jump, but then I remembered my fear when I jumped all those years ago and decided against it. I did, however, manage to throw myself off a platform 109m high and freefall for 60m (reaching 150kph) on the shotover canyon swing. I was terrified and took a while to jump but enjoyed it so much I went straight back up and did another one sitting on a chair and falling backwards - awesome. Luging is another activity you just have to try when you're here, the ride up to the track on the top of the mountain on the gondola is another fantastic experience. Queenstown has been tough on my heart and my credit card so a day cruising on the beautiful Milford Sound was just what I needed yesterday. My last stop will be Christchurch in a couple of days and then I leave NZ to head for South America. My travels in this country have been so enjoyable, I shall never forget the scenery and all the crazy activities I've done but I'm looking forward to the next adventure.
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Saturday, 17 May 2008
Monday, 28 April 2008
Kia Ora from NZ
Well my first couple of weeks in the Land of the Long White Cloud have again been action-packed. There's a reason New Zealand is known as the adventure capital of the world, who would have thought I would throw myself out of a plane at 15,000 ft with a complete stranger strapped to my back and a smile on my face.... there must be something in the water. Just to keep the adrenaline pumping I spent five hours black water rafting in the Waitomo Caves, one of NZ's famously invented action sports. The adventure starts with a 35m abseil through a very small hole in the pitch black, a terrifying fly down a zip wire and ends with a jump from a great height into the subterranean river of the aptly-named 'Abyss'. I think this was possibly one of the highlights of my travels so far as I let the water carry me through the caves in total darkness while all around was the amazing twinkling of thousands of glow-worms, a memory that will stay for a long time.
The Tongariro Crossing is supposedly one of the best one day hikes in the world and after 6 hours of pretty tough walking the sense of achievement was huge. I'm not a huge fan of The Lord of the Rings films but it's hard to escape the film locations as you travel around and Ngauruhoe or 'Mount Doom' was quite spectacular. The Emerald Lakes really were emerald and although the weather came in very fast, we had some fabulous views. I've heard the saying of 'four seasons in one day' on many occasions and it is so true. Unfortunately I experienced this on my way to Muriwai Beach on the north west coast, famous for its gannet colony - after driving through torrential rain, a 2 minute walk outside the car proved rather silly and resulted in the drive back to Auckland in underwear! Minutes earlier and I'm sure we would have been a hit by a number of trees that littered the road on our way back. The news that evening reported a number of deaths in the area so I think we were very lucky.
So I have covered most of the North Island now from Auckland up to the beautiful Bay of Islands and then down to Wellington (with its beehive parliamentary building) and seen some spectacular (and very diverse) scenery along the way. From the geo-thermal pools in Rotorua to the world's largest volcanic lake in Taupo. Much of the countryside reminds me of England and in particular Devon but what strikes me about the cities in this country is the lack of people, the population of 4 million seems lost on this amount of land.
I've been lucky enough to be welcomed into a local Marae - a sacred Maori meeting house treated with a huge amount of respect, and I have learned so much about the Maori culture. The welcome ritual (te powhiri) I found extremely intimidating and wondered how Captain Cook must have felt when he took his first steps on the land and experienced the strange looking inhabitants all those years ago. It all ends on a friendly note once the locals have accepted that the visitors pose no threat and the hongi (pressing of noses) is performed. Their traditional method of cooking food in the ground over hot river stones (hangi) results in an absolute feast and it's difficult not to get caught up in the Maori passion for life. I was also fortunate to be taught the poi dance by a local Maori woman which involves swinging balls tied on the end of a cord to the rhythm of music. I didn't master the haka but was surprised at how powerful the dance was when it is right in front of you and I now understand how most rugby teams feel when they play the All Blacks. I haven't caught a rugby match yet but have certainly been involved in lengthy discussions on their national team who have an almost mythical status - it's one of the favourite topics here.
Tomorrow I catch the ferry across to the South Island which I'm informed is even more spectacular than the North so I look forward to more adventures and especially visiting the Marlborough region to sample some of my favourite Sauvignon Blanc..........
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The Tongariro Crossing is supposedly one of the best one day hikes in the world and after 6 hours of pretty tough walking the sense of achievement was huge. I'm not a huge fan of The Lord of the Rings films but it's hard to escape the film locations as you travel around and Ngauruhoe or 'Mount Doom' was quite spectacular. The Emerald Lakes really were emerald and although the weather came in very fast, we had some fabulous views. I've heard the saying of 'four seasons in one day' on many occasions and it is so true. Unfortunately I experienced this on my way to Muriwai Beach on the north west coast, famous for its gannet colony - after driving through torrential rain, a 2 minute walk outside the car proved rather silly and resulted in the drive back to Auckland in underwear! Minutes earlier and I'm sure we would have been a hit by a number of trees that littered the road on our way back. The news that evening reported a number of deaths in the area so I think we were very lucky.
So I have covered most of the North Island now from Auckland up to the beautiful Bay of Islands and then down to Wellington (with its beehive parliamentary building) and seen some spectacular (and very diverse) scenery along the way. From the geo-thermal pools in Rotorua to the world's largest volcanic lake in Taupo. Much of the countryside reminds me of England and in particular Devon but what strikes me about the cities in this country is the lack of people, the population of 4 million seems lost on this amount of land.
I've been lucky enough to be welcomed into a local Marae - a sacred Maori meeting house treated with a huge amount of respect, and I have learned so much about the Maori culture. The welcome ritual (te powhiri) I found extremely intimidating and wondered how Captain Cook must have felt when he took his first steps on the land and experienced the strange looking inhabitants all those years ago. It all ends on a friendly note once the locals have accepted that the visitors pose no threat and the hongi (pressing of noses) is performed. Their traditional method of cooking food in the ground over hot river stones (hangi) results in an absolute feast and it's difficult not to get caught up in the Maori passion for life. I was also fortunate to be taught the poi dance by a local Maori woman which involves swinging balls tied on the end of a cord to the rhythm of music. I didn't master the haka but was surprised at how powerful the dance was when it is right in front of you and I now understand how most rugby teams feel when they play the All Blacks. I haven't caught a rugby match yet but have certainly been involved in lengthy discussions on their national team who have an almost mythical status - it's one of the favourite topics here.
Tomorrow I catch the ferry across to the South Island which I'm informed is even more spectacular than the North so I look forward to more adventures and especially visiting the Marlborough region to sample some of my favourite Sauvignon Blanc..........
Messenger's gone Mobile! Get it now!
Thursday, 10 April 2008
Sun, Sea & Surf
My last weeks have been spent just north of the Gold Coast in a beautiful part of Australia and I've managed to cover much of the surrounding area. I've certainly been lucky with my time on the water, enjoying trips out in some beautiful boats and had an excellent teacher who introduced me to the world of knots - I am now proficient in the double sheet bend and the clove hitch! Motoring along the Broadwater between the mainland and South Stradbroke Island gave me the opportunity to view the 'Palazzo Versace' and, more impressively, its marina. What a fabulous collection of extremely expensive looking vessels.
Further down the coast, I'm not a particular fan of Surfers Paradise and I'm quite sure it lives up to its name of 'Australia's favourite playground', but it's definitely worth a visit if only to experience the bronzed Aussie lifesavers. I didn't realise quite how busy these guys are on a daily basis and the ocean seems so much more dangerous over here with rip tides and idiotic tourists. I became a temporary member of The Southport Surf Club for the day and enjoyed breakfast overlooking Main Beach while watching the TV cameras filming the latest rescues. A walk along the beach afterwards reminded me of the dangerous inhabitants of this country as I attempted to avoid the stingers littering the sand. I saw first hand the results of a brush with one of these jellyfish as a young bodyboarder was comforted by his dad after a particularly nasty sting.
From the stunning beaches associated with Oz, it' easy to forget there is so much more to see here. The National Parks are spectacular too and the treetop walk I took through Lamington was beautiful. Part of the Gondwana Rainforests of Australia World Heritage Area, it includes the most extensive areas of subtropical rainforest in the world. The temperature drops quite dramatically as you enter the rainforest and the only noises breaking the damp quiet come from the outstanding wildlife. The birds are so very different from back home, shocking colours and distinctive calls. Real creatures of habit, a huge flock of corellas flies over the house at exactly the same time every evening.
So my time in Australia is at an end, I know I will be back again and who knows, maybe even as a resident? The next stop is Auckland and my bags have been packed with extreme caution. I am keen to avoid the experience I had entering Oz - the wooden gifts I bought in Thailand and the dirt on my walking boots earned me a severe telling off from the customs officer although luckily I escaped the $500 fine and an extremely embarassing appearance on the hugely popular TV programme 'Border Police'.
So I look forward to my arrival in the land of the Maoris and my next adventures.
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Further down the coast, I'm not a particular fan of Surfers Paradise and I'm quite sure it lives up to its name of 'Australia's favourite playground', but it's definitely worth a visit if only to experience the bronzed Aussie lifesavers. I didn't realise quite how busy these guys are on a daily basis and the ocean seems so much more dangerous over here with rip tides and idiotic tourists. I became a temporary member of The Southport Surf Club for the day and enjoyed breakfast overlooking Main Beach while watching the TV cameras filming the latest rescues. A walk along the beach afterwards reminded me of the dangerous inhabitants of this country as I attempted to avoid the stingers littering the sand. I saw first hand the results of a brush with one of these jellyfish as a young bodyboarder was comforted by his dad after a particularly nasty sting.
From the stunning beaches associated with Oz, it' easy to forget there is so much more to see here. The National Parks are spectacular too and the treetop walk I took through Lamington was beautiful. Part of the Gondwana Rainforests of Australia World Heritage Area, it includes the most extensive areas of subtropical rainforest in the world. The temperature drops quite dramatically as you enter the rainforest and the only noises breaking the damp quiet come from the outstanding wildlife. The birds are so very different from back home, shocking colours and distinctive calls. Real creatures of habit, a huge flock of corellas flies over the house at exactly the same time every evening.
So my time in Australia is at an end, I know I will be back again and who knows, maybe even as a resident? The next stop is Auckland and my bags have been packed with extreme caution. I am keen to avoid the experience I had entering Oz - the wooden gifts I bought in Thailand and the dirt on my walking boots earned me a severe telling off from the customs officer although luckily I escaped the $500 fine and an extremely embarassing appearance on the hugely popular TV programme 'Border Police'.
So I look forward to my arrival in the land of the Maoris and my next adventures.
A prize an hour, 24 hours a day. Try Big Snap now!
Tuesday, 18 March 2008
A sojourn Down Under
My last update in Thailand feels like a lifetime ago and I'm not sure where my first month in Australia has gone. From the basic accommodation I have been used to since I left England, I have been completely spoilt staying in luxury with friends and family.
Flying into Sydney was as spectacular as ever and I wasted no time in taking the ferry across the harbour to Manly; the view of the bridge and the opera house never fails to take my breath away. Walking along Manly beach reminded me of how wonderful the outdoors lifestyle is here with so much going on; volleyball, surfing, jogging and general healthy living. After a fantastic week catching up with friends in Sydney and visiting beautiful beaches, my next stop was Brisbane where I met my dad to drive up to the Sunshine Coast together to meet up with my mum, brother and his family. Noosa is definitely one of my favourite spots in Oz and it was great to spend time there with my family again. Kelly Slater was in town for the Festival of Surfing so I thought I'd test my skills at the local surf school. I was slightly embarrassed when my young nephews and niece stood up on their boards first time and continued to display what can only be described as perfect balance while Auntie Katie struggled at the back. I decided at that point not to try anything new while I was with them and withdrew from the fishing and go-karting competitions we had organised.
Wine-tasting is a must in Australia and driving through the Mary River Valley, we visited the Sunshine Coast's oldest vineyard for a sampling session. The scenery was spectacular and driving on up through the Glass House Mountains National Park there was a noticeable (and welcome) drop in temperature. A trip on the sugar cane train at The Big Pineapple took us through tranquil rainforest and a huge array of plants & fruits, I now know how to grow a pineapple. Stopping off at the koala and fauna sanctuary reminded me that the Aussie native bear is actually not that cute and cuddly but we enjoyed watching the kangaroos and their joeys.
So after ten days of fun, full-on Aussie cuisine & top notch wines we headed down the coast.
From Noosa to Sanctuary Cove, where the preferred method of transport is the golf buggy, another world greeted me. Swimming in the lagoon of the stunning five-star hotel, the poverty of India seemed worlds away and I reminded myself how fortunate I am.
Back up the coast I shared my birthday celebrations with my brother at the multi award-winning Sirromet winery at Mount Cotton, another chance to taste some of Australia's finest and as we took in the breathtaking views over the vineyards I knew this would be a birthday to remember.
My stay in Brisbane finished with a visit to the Queensland Museum as a volunteer with Manly State School where I learned everything I need to know about dinosaurs, dung beetles and 6 year old children (who I suspect are rather more difficult to control than any other creatures).
So after saying goodbye to my family I am now staying with another good friend just north of the Gold Coast and looking forward to the coming weeks in the land of Oz.
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Flying into Sydney was as spectacular as ever and I wasted no time in taking the ferry across the harbour to Manly; the view of the bridge and the opera house never fails to take my breath away. Walking along Manly beach reminded me of how wonderful the outdoors lifestyle is here with so much going on; volleyball, surfing, jogging and general healthy living. After a fantastic week catching up with friends in Sydney and visiting beautiful beaches, my next stop was Brisbane where I met my dad to drive up to the Sunshine Coast together to meet up with my mum, brother and his family. Noosa is definitely one of my favourite spots in Oz and it was great to spend time there with my family again. Kelly Slater was in town for the Festival of Surfing so I thought I'd test my skills at the local surf school. I was slightly embarrassed when my young nephews and niece stood up on their boards first time and continued to display what can only be described as perfect balance while Auntie Katie struggled at the back. I decided at that point not to try anything new while I was with them and withdrew from the fishing and go-karting competitions we had organised.
Wine-tasting is a must in Australia and driving through the Mary River Valley, we visited the Sunshine Coast's oldest vineyard for a sampling session. The scenery was spectacular and driving on up through the Glass House Mountains National Park there was a noticeable (and welcome) drop in temperature. A trip on the sugar cane train at The Big Pineapple took us through tranquil rainforest and a huge array of plants & fruits, I now know how to grow a pineapple. Stopping off at the koala and fauna sanctuary reminded me that the Aussie native bear is actually not that cute and cuddly but we enjoyed watching the kangaroos and their joeys.
So after ten days of fun, full-on Aussie cuisine & top notch wines we headed down the coast.
From Noosa to Sanctuary Cove, where the preferred method of transport is the golf buggy, another world greeted me. Swimming in the lagoon of the stunning five-star hotel, the poverty of India seemed worlds away and I reminded myself how fortunate I am.
Back up the coast I shared my birthday celebrations with my brother at the multi award-winning Sirromet winery at Mount Cotton, another chance to taste some of Australia's finest and as we took in the breathtaking views over the vineyards I knew this would be a birthday to remember.
My stay in Brisbane finished with a visit to the Queensland Museum as a volunteer with Manly State School where I learned everything I need to know about dinosaurs, dung beetles and 6 year old children (who I suspect are rather more difficult to control than any other creatures).
So after saying goodbye to my family I am now staying with another good friend just north of the Gold Coast and looking forward to the coming weeks in the land of Oz.
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Thursday, 14 February 2008
'The Beach'
Well my last couple of weeks in Thailand have given me the opportunity to explore some of its most beautiful islands. Koh Samet is located in the Rayong province and a favourite haunt of the Thais due to its proximity to Bangkok. The beaches here are powder white and the sea perfect for swimming and snorkelling. My dad would have been proud of my efforts with a fishing line, it was that big - honestly - and one of the highlights was the fireshow on the beach which offered added excitement when a pole of fire accidently shot in the direction of the audience.
I also managed to get to the Cambodian border to extend my visa which was an experience in itself. I've heard stories from fellow travellers about how tourists have been refused entry back into Thailand and I must admit I was slightly nervous about letting my passport out of my sight with an absolute stranger. Luckily all went smoothly and after another stamp in my passport I was back on the road to the island.
A number of bus journeys later, I was heading down to the Andaman coast with the intention of staying on Koh Phi Phi, famous for its appearance in the film 'The Beach'. Something inside me made me jump off the ferry as we were passing a small island called Koh Jum, I'm not sure why I threw my backpack into a longtail boat from a great height but I must have sensed that this would be somewhere quite special and I was not disappointed. What greeted me was a stretch of deserted palm-fringed beach and a few bungalows set amongst the trees. With no electricity, the island doesn't appeal to everyone, thank goodness, and for a time I'm sure this will remain a hidden gem. My time here was spent in my hammock, swimming in the crystal clear water and tasting the excellent Thai cuisine. It was a welcome departure from the hectic first few weeks in Thailand and I could not drag myself away despite several attempts to move on, that's the wonderful thing about travelling.
I did manage a day trip to Phi Phi which was probably enough - 'The Beach' as featured in the film was stunning although teeming with tourists as expected. After the devastation caused by the tsunami which hit both sides of the island, the development is well under way again and the visitors are back in their millions.
So it is back again to Bangkok to end my travels in Thailand. What a wonderful country it is and I will remember the most friendly people and spectacular scenery.
My next stop is one of my favourite cities - Sydney - and I look forward to the wonderful trip across the harbour to Manly to visit friends.
Think you know your TV, music and film? Try Search Charades!
I also managed to get to the Cambodian border to extend my visa which was an experience in itself. I've heard stories from fellow travellers about how tourists have been refused entry back into Thailand and I must admit I was slightly nervous about letting my passport out of my sight with an absolute stranger. Luckily all went smoothly and after another stamp in my passport I was back on the road to the island.
A number of bus journeys later, I was heading down to the Andaman coast with the intention of staying on Koh Phi Phi, famous for its appearance in the film 'The Beach'. Something inside me made me jump off the ferry as we were passing a small island called Koh Jum, I'm not sure why I threw my backpack into a longtail boat from a great height but I must have sensed that this would be somewhere quite special and I was not disappointed. What greeted me was a stretch of deserted palm-fringed beach and a few bungalows set amongst the trees. With no electricity, the island doesn't appeal to everyone, thank goodness, and for a time I'm sure this will remain a hidden gem. My time here was spent in my hammock, swimming in the crystal clear water and tasting the excellent Thai cuisine. It was a welcome departure from the hectic first few weeks in Thailand and I could not drag myself away despite several attempts to move on, that's the wonderful thing about travelling.
I did manage a day trip to Phi Phi which was probably enough - 'The Beach' as featured in the film was stunning although teeming with tourists as expected. After the devastation caused by the tsunami which hit both sides of the island, the development is well under way again and the visitors are back in their millions.
So it is back again to Bangkok to end my travels in Thailand. What a wonderful country it is and I will remember the most friendly people and spectacular scenery.
My next stop is one of my favourite cities - Sydney - and I look forward to the wonderful trip across the harbour to Manly to visit friends.
Think you know your TV, music and film? Try Search Charades!
Monday, 28 January 2008
Real Thailand
My last week has been spent trekking through the rainforest of Phu Toey National Park in the Kanchanaburi province, approximately 130km north of Bangkok. It was back to basics again, camping in traditional villages in tents (I am now somewhat expert in pitching tents). A lack of drinking water and toilet faciltiies did nothing to dampen our spirits as we showered in waterfalls and experienced life in the Karen hill tribe villages. We spent an afternoon exploring the local caves and I didn't realise it was possible to squeeze through such small areas (caving is definitely not for the claustrophobic). We had bats for company (plus a whole of other creatures I'm sure) and I was rather relieved when I saw daylight filtering through the rocks above. My final day was spent at Lampthern Dam (the largest in Thailand) where we swam and tried unsuccessfully to remove the dirt engrained in our bodies. Our tents were pitched in the most picturesque spot overlooking the water and dinner was taken with a very hospitable local family in their beautiful house. I managed an early start one morning to watch a fabulous sunrise and most of the evenings were spent around the campfire. This was real Thailand and I have no doubt I will be visiting this amazing country again.
So after a night in a hotel with a hot shower (heaven) and a very painful Thai massage (hell), I am now chilling out in Ko Samet National Park, an island in the Gulf of Thailand. My leg muscles are looking forward to a recovery period after the battering they took during the trek and the coming week on the beach is most welcome.
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So after a night in a hotel with a hot shower (heaven) and a very painful Thai massage (hell), I am now chilling out in Ko Samet National Park, an island in the Gulf of Thailand. My leg muscles are looking forward to a recovery period after the battering they took during the trek and the coming week on the beach is most welcome.
Everything in one place. All new Windows Live!
Saturday, 19 January 2008
Budding Buddhist
I knew that living alongside the Buddhist monks would be something not many would have the chance of experiencing and I feel incredibly privileged to have had the opportunity to do so. I do like the principles of buddhism - the lack of desire and therefore the lack of suffering and the discipline shown by the monks is admirable. I'm not sure I could cope with the 5am starts every day (not being a morning person) or the fasting between midday and dawn, but I felt strangely peaceful during my stay. The monks have no possessions and rely on others to survive but in a hugely devout buddhist country, there is obviously no lack of support from the lay Buddhists. We began each day by walking the streets in the dark collecting alms - the respect given by a lay Buddhist to a Buddhist monk. The monk then prays for the giver's family and although I did have some doubts as to whether this could be portrayed as charity, it became obvious that the act of alms giving helped to connect the giver to the monk and all that he represents. It surprised me how much we had collected in an hour and a half, and although only ten monks were living in the Wat Songphinong temple I was assured that none of the food would go to waste and it would be distributed to those in need. Before we ate the offerings we took part in the chanting, the traditional means of preparing the mind for meditation. I have used meditation before but had forgotten how effective it is in calming the mind. Walking meditation was a new practice for me and the hectic Western world became a distant memory as I passed time in this way. The days were spent cleaning, chanting and meditating and I felt as though I was cocooned in a land far away from the one I know. My stay has encouraged me to explore the buddhist way of life in more detail so I am now engrossed in text books.
I'm finding it difficult to keep up with the pace of my travelling and the next week will see me trekking through central Thailand, so an entirely different experience again.
She said what? About who? Shameful celebrity quotes on Search Star!
I'm finding it difficult to keep up with the pace of my travelling and the next week will see me trekking through central Thailand, so an entirely different experience again.
She said what? About who? Shameful celebrity quotes on Search Star!
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