Well I finally managed to leave the wonderful Galapagos Islands after a truly unique experience although the boat journey across the pacific ocean between Isabela and Santa Cruz will surely be remembered as the worst trip of my year. Not only did the tiny boat break down halfway across (in rougher seas then I have ever experienced) but the captain of the rescue boat trapped his hand in between the 2 boats as they were trying to transfer the passengers in incredibly dangerous circumstances and he was unable to take the boat back. I was wondering at one point whether we would ever make it back to dry land so was relieved when we finally arrived.
After my work at the tortoise breeding centre came to an end, I headed towards Santa Cruz to attempt to achieve my advanced diving certificate. I have been fortunate enough to dive in some of the world´s most exotic waters but I think this surpassed anything I have seen before. Visiting North Seymour Island, we were treated to the rare sight of a 10m whale shark on our descent followed by schools of white tip and Galapagos sharks. Together with the eagle rays, turtles and sealions, I was oblivious to the dangerous currents and conditions we were experiencing. Gordon Rocks and Floreana were the next sites we visited and despite the lack of hammerheads, we filmed some great sealife. After qualifying as an advanced diver and spending the best part of a week on a boat and totally overcoming my seasickness I found a local to give me a sailing lesson which has now encouraged me to take a course back in Plymouth (a black tip shark circling the tiny boat as we sailed back into the harbour was a bonus).
With 2 weeks left before my return home and no plans I decided to return to my adopted family on Isabela and spend my last days chilling on the beach. Returning to the capital city has been rather a shock to the system as I´d completely forgotten about traffic and crowds. I am now spending my last day in Quito, packing my rucksack for the final time (which I am convinced is now well over the weight limit) and looking forward to catching up with all my friends and family at home.
So my journey of a lifetime has now come to an end and what a journey it has been. I feel incredibly fortunate to have had such an opportunity with so many highlights and have made some lifelong friends along the way. I will be back in the UK in less than 24 hours and looking forward to my next adventure, whatever that may be.
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Sunday, 16 November 2008
Wednesday, 22 October 2008
Gorgeous Galapagos
Well after finishing my marine conservation work in Puerto Lopez, I headed down the coast to the beautiful laid back beach village of Montañita with Ecuador´s best waves. After a week spent totally chilling out, a 13 hour night bus back to Quito proved an interesting experience and not one I´m keen to repeat. Arriving back in the capital I spent a couple of days checking out the local hotspots including the country´s biggest claim to fame, its location right on the equator. La Mitad del Mundo (the middle of the world) is where Charles-Marie de La Condamine made the measurements in 1736 showing that this was indeed the equatorial line. His measurements proved the that the world is not perfectly round but that it bulges at the equator. However, my main reason for visiting was that I weigh less on the equator! Climbing Volcan Cotopaxi was truly an unforgettable experience and when I reached the snow at 5000m, I was at the highest altitude I have experienced. The country´s second highest peak is an active volcano although no signs of an eruption while we were there thank goodness.
My last stop on this amazing year has been the spectacular Galapagos Islands. Arriving on Isla Baltra I made my way down to Santa Cruz, on the way taking in my first glimpse of the giant tortoises in their natural environment. The beautiful island of Isabella has been my home for the last few weeks, staying with my wonderful host family Adolfo and Perdita. The largest and youngest of the islands (a mere one million years old), it was formed by the merging of six volcanoes, five of which are still active today. A day spent climbing the world´s second largest crater, Sierra Negra, on one of the most volcanically active places on earth, was another highlight of the year with spectacular views of all the other volcanoes at the summit.
The conservation project I am now volunteering with at the Giant Tortoise Breeding Centre is unique in its bid to safeguard the future of one of the planet´s oldest and most magnificent species, hovering on the point of extinction due to human interference. The Giant Galapagos Turtle population stood at 300,000 in 1537 and is now a mere 7% of the original total. This tortoise is on the endangered species list and a number of other tortoise species on other islands are now extinct. The work I have been involved in includes cleaning and feeding both babies and adults plus caring for the unhatched eggs which are placed in incubators for 120-140 days. I was fortunate enough to witness a baby hatching last week but as they live for at least 150 years will never see him as an adult.
During my spare time here I have seen a plethora of wildlife during some amazing snorkelling sessions with sealions, rays and turtles; white-tip sharks were gathered at the bottom of a crevice of clear water on the Islote Tintoreras. The marine iguanas, flamingos, pelicans, frigate birds and penguins surround me but my favourites have to be the blue-footed boobies whose feet are seriously blue!
So my work here is nearly completed and I am looking forward to returning to Santa Cruz to attempt my Advanced Diving Certificate next week before another couple of weeks relaxing in one of the most beautiful places on earth and then back to real life with a bump.......
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My last stop on this amazing year has been the spectacular Galapagos Islands. Arriving on Isla Baltra I made my way down to Santa Cruz, on the way taking in my first glimpse of the giant tortoises in their natural environment. The beautiful island of Isabella has been my home for the last few weeks, staying with my wonderful host family Adolfo and Perdita. The largest and youngest of the islands (a mere one million years old), it was formed by the merging of six volcanoes, five of which are still active today. A day spent climbing the world´s second largest crater, Sierra Negra, on one of the most volcanically active places on earth, was another highlight of the year with spectacular views of all the other volcanoes at the summit.
The conservation project I am now volunteering with at the Giant Tortoise Breeding Centre is unique in its bid to safeguard the future of one of the planet´s oldest and most magnificent species, hovering on the point of extinction due to human interference. The Giant Galapagos Turtle population stood at 300,000 in 1537 and is now a mere 7% of the original total. This tortoise is on the endangered species list and a number of other tortoise species on other islands are now extinct. The work I have been involved in includes cleaning and feeding both babies and adults plus caring for the unhatched eggs which are placed in incubators for 120-140 days. I was fortunate enough to witness a baby hatching last week but as they live for at least 150 years will never see him as an adult.
During my spare time here I have seen a plethora of wildlife during some amazing snorkelling sessions with sealions, rays and turtles; white-tip sharks were gathered at the bottom of a crevice of clear water on the Islote Tintoreras. The marine iguanas, flamingos, pelicans, frigate birds and penguins surround me but my favourites have to be the blue-footed boobies whose feet are seriously blue!
So my work here is nearly completed and I am looking forward to returning to Santa Cruz to attempt my Advanced Diving Certificate next week before another couple of weeks relaxing in one of the most beautiful places on earth and then back to real life with a bump.......
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Friday, 5 September 2008
Amazing Amazon
After a couple of days relaxing in Peru´s capital city Lima, I headed up the coast to Trujillo and the small coastal town of Huanchaco where the fisherman still ride the surf in reed boats. The seafood here was truly delicious and in particular the local speciality ceviche. From here we visited the largest mud city in the world, Chan Chan, covering 26 square km and built by the Chimu kings then onto the Huaca del Sol and Huaca de le Luna (temples of the sun and moon) which were quite spectacular and the way the images on the walls have been preserved is unbelievable. From here we entered the the Sechura desert and visited possibly my favourite museum of my entire trip - the Lambayeque Museum, displaying more gold than is imaginable, found at the tomb of the lord of Sipan. After all the culture of the last few weeks in Peru, it was good to get to my last stop on the beach at Punta Sol for a few days where I attempted more surf lessons (I´m told surfing originated in Peru) with Robbie the pro who assured me he would get me standing and he did. My fishing trip there was very successful although I was not happy landing a large eel in the boat and the stone fish, although pretty, was lethal. There really is nothing quite like the taste of fresh fish (dad, one day you`ll understand....) and later that evening we cooked our catch over the campfire and discussed what a fantastic time we´d experienced through Peru. Relaxed and recharged the next morning we continued north until we crossed the border and entered Ecuador where the change in scenery was notable. The old colonial market town of Cuenca was my first stop, famous for the panama hat and I spent an interesting couple of hours in the factory being shown exactly how they are made. The Ecuadorians love their music and dancing as much as their South American neighbours and I spent a wonderful evening listening to a fabulous local band. Moving northward again, I visited the ruins at Ingapirca where the Incas worhsipped the sun then onto Baños, famous for its hot thermal springs. The adrenaline was pumping again as I spent a day canyoning - abseiling down waterfalls and jumping from great heights into small areas of water, I then finished the day by flying down a zipwire over a canyon, a massive rush. A massage was definitely in order when we got back to the hotel in preparation for my trip into the Amazon jungle. From Misahualli I took a motorised canoe downriver to enter the jungle for a couple of days and I learnt how to surivive by finding my own water and food (including pretty tasty ants) and also how to make myself a rather attractive looking hat from plants to protect me from the intense sun. I just about survived the night in my bamboo hut although the monkeys, cockroaches and a whole host of other creepy crawlies did their best to distract me. Tubing down the River Napo will certainly be another of the year´s highlights for me and it took me back to the jungle lodge before I headed towards the capital, Quito, and back into city life again for a few days. Another round of farewells to some great travelling companions and I headed to the coast and the pretty fishing village of Puerto Lopez. So I am now living in a lovely house here with other volunteers and have started work again on a marine conservation project. This week I have been measuring sharks, searching for turtles to tag and watching fabulous displays by the enormous humpback whales. Next week I can expect more of the same and hopefully some diving with manta rays and a chance to educate local school children on the environment.
So my adventure continues and I look forward to flying to Galapagos in a couple of weeks.
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So my adventure continues and I look forward to flying to Galapagos in a couple of weeks.
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Saturday, 16 August 2008
Goodbye Bolivia, Hello Peru
Well I crossed the border into Peru 3 weeks ago and said ciao to Bolivia for good, what an amazing country. My last few weeks there were spent working at the San Juan de Dios orphanage in Sucre and living in an apartment with other international volunteers. I completely fell in love with 18 month old twin brothers, Michel and Jorge and would love to bring all the children home with me. The twenty five under 2s that I took charge of had mostly been abandoned or maltreated and I found it incredibly rewarding to monitor their progress even over a 4 week period. Despite spending every day working with the children and then taking conversation, cooking and salsa classes most days, I still managed to explore much of this wonderful country. The climatically challenged Uyuni proved to be one of my Bolivian highlights with a visit to the Salar, the world´s largest salt flat, at 3653m and covering an unbelievable 12,000 square metres. South America is home to many ´world´s largest´and Potosi (the world´s highest city at 4060m) was again unforgettable. Famous for its silver mines and the atrocious working conditions where millions have lost their lives, this was probably the most shocking experience for me. 3 hours walking through one of the mines was unbearable, children aged 14 are still working 12 hour shifts with nothing but coca leaves to keep them going, underground temperatures vary from below freezing to 45 degrees celsius and many miners die within ten years of entering the mines. The relief to get out in one piece was immense when all around explosions were taking place.
Sucre really did feel like home to me when I returned and I even managed to get to a local football match which ended in riot police escorting the referee from the pitch, South Americans really do take their football seriously.
So after saying goodbye once again to some great friends, I headed back to La Paz for a couple of nights and prepared for my journey through Peru. The border crossing was pretty easy despite a slight disagreement with the officials regarding my visa (thank goodness I can now converse in their language). After passing the Gate of the Sun we made our way to Puno on the shores of Lake Titicaca and visiting the floating reed islands of the Uros Indians will surely be one of the highlights for me. It´s incredible to think that these tribes live in such primitive conditions but are so content with their lives. We were welcomed with open arms, taken into their homes (one room reed huts) and introduced to their way of life. On to Amantani Island where I had the privilege of staying with such a hospitable local Aymara Indian family. They dressed me in traditional costume and I spent a wonderful evening dancing with the locals. My final stop on Titicaca was Taquile where we witnessed a large fiesta (the Peruvians are up there with the Bolivians for enjoying themselves). So after a fantastic few days on the huge Lake Titicaca, the old Inca capital Cusco, was my next stop. What a beautiful city with so many churches, squares and colourful markets. The increase in tourists was noticeable here as the stop off for visitors on their way to Machu Picchu. My trip to the Sacred Valley of the Incas started with the Pisac ruins and ended with a night in Ollantaytambo staying with another local family. I knew the Inca Trail would be a chellenge for me but after 4 days and 33km of some pretty tough walking, the sight of Machu Picchu from Intipunku as the sun was rising was unforgettable. My hotel back in Cusco was most welcome and a couple of days relaxing was needed before leaving for Chivay and a soak in the thermal springs. I was fortunate to witness a fabulous display from the condors at Colca Canyon, the deepest in the world. On to Arequipa, ´the white city´, perhaps my favourite in Peru to date. Beautiful churches and a lively square, overshadowed by the massive volcano El Misti and surrounded by some of the wildest terrain in the country.
Leaving the foothills of the Andes, we made it down to sea level at Puerta Inca, much appreciated by my body after nearly 3 months at altitude. On the way to Nazca we made a visit to the eerie Chauchilla cemetery with its ancient mummies with skin and hair intact. Despite my fear of flying, I braved a 4-seater plane and a pilot named Angel to take a trip over the unexplained Nazca lines and was amazed at the clarity of the shapes made thousands of years ago. Heading deep into the desert my next stop was the Huacachina oasis where I took the scariest ride of my life in the front of a sand buggy down almost vertical drop sand dunes, the only respite being stops to sand board down the dunes. After a night in Pisco sampling the wonderful seafood, I took a boat trip to the Ballestas Islands to view the colonies of seabirds, a real taste of what I can expect when I get to Galapagos.
So now I find myself in the capital city of Lima and a chance to get my breath back before heading up the coast tomorrow on the way to the Ecuadorian border with many exciting experiences still ahead of me.....
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Sucre really did feel like home to me when I returned and I even managed to get to a local football match which ended in riot police escorting the referee from the pitch, South Americans really do take their football seriously.
So after saying goodbye once again to some great friends, I headed back to La Paz for a couple of nights and prepared for my journey through Peru. The border crossing was pretty easy despite a slight disagreement with the officials regarding my visa (thank goodness I can now converse in their language). After passing the Gate of the Sun we made our way to Puno on the shores of Lake Titicaca and visiting the floating reed islands of the Uros Indians will surely be one of the highlights for me. It´s incredible to think that these tribes live in such primitive conditions but are so content with their lives. We were welcomed with open arms, taken into their homes (one room reed huts) and introduced to their way of life. On to Amantani Island where I had the privilege of staying with such a hospitable local Aymara Indian family. They dressed me in traditional costume and I spent a wonderful evening dancing with the locals. My final stop on Titicaca was Taquile where we witnessed a large fiesta (the Peruvians are up there with the Bolivians for enjoying themselves). So after a fantastic few days on the huge Lake Titicaca, the old Inca capital Cusco, was my next stop. What a beautiful city with so many churches, squares and colourful markets. The increase in tourists was noticeable here as the stop off for visitors on their way to Machu Picchu. My trip to the Sacred Valley of the Incas started with the Pisac ruins and ended with a night in Ollantaytambo staying with another local family. I knew the Inca Trail would be a chellenge for me but after 4 days and 33km of some pretty tough walking, the sight of Machu Picchu from Intipunku as the sun was rising was unforgettable. My hotel back in Cusco was most welcome and a couple of days relaxing was needed before leaving for Chivay and a soak in the thermal springs. I was fortunate to witness a fabulous display from the condors at Colca Canyon, the deepest in the world. On to Arequipa, ´the white city´, perhaps my favourite in Peru to date. Beautiful churches and a lively square, overshadowed by the massive volcano El Misti and surrounded by some of the wildest terrain in the country.
Leaving the foothills of the Andes, we made it down to sea level at Puerta Inca, much appreciated by my body after nearly 3 months at altitude. On the way to Nazca we made a visit to the eerie Chauchilla cemetery with its ancient mummies with skin and hair intact. Despite my fear of flying, I braved a 4-seater plane and a pilot named Angel to take a trip over the unexplained Nazca lines and was amazed at the clarity of the shapes made thousands of years ago. Heading deep into the desert my next stop was the Huacachina oasis where I took the scariest ride of my life in the front of a sand buggy down almost vertical drop sand dunes, the only respite being stops to sand board down the dunes. After a night in Pisco sampling the wonderful seafood, I took a boat trip to the Ballestas Islands to view the colonies of seabirds, a real taste of what I can expect when I get to Galapagos.
So now I find myself in the capital city of Lima and a chance to get my breath back before heading up the coast tomorrow on the way to the Ecuadorian border with many exciting experiences still ahead of me.....
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Wednesday, 18 June 2008
Hola Sud America
After leaving the relative safety of New Zealand and many friends, I knew I was on my way to my most challenging part of the year. Crossing the international date line, gaining 15 hours and taking 4 flights in 4 days certainly took it´s toll on my body and it took me a few days to acclimatise. My Spanish phrasebook proved invaluable for the first few days in Chile and Bolivia as noone speaks English but I have now spent almost a month studying Spanish at a school in Sucre, the judicial capital of Bolivia, and can now understand slightly more than ´what is your name and where do you come from?´. The altitude has also had an effect on my body (La Paz is the highest capital city in the world at 3660m) and although I am far from fit, I´m sure I don´t normally lose my breath so quickly. Apparently one of the remedies here is chewing cocoa leaves but I have yet to sample that delight.
Bolivia is a fascinating country, the hemisphere´s highest and most isolated, the poorest in South America and also the most indigenous with over 60% of the population claiming indigenous heritage. The one thing that Bolivia lacks is beaches, having lost it´s coastline to Chile during the War of the Pacific in 1879-83, leaving the country landlocked. I have spent most of my time here in and around Sucre but am looking forward to exploring more in the coming weeks.
The political situation in Bolivia at present is unstable and I am yet to meet any local who has anything positive to say about their first indigenous president, Evo Morales. Protests and marches are a favourite pastime of the Bolivianos as I discovered on my way from the airport as we dodged fires and debris on the roads. Blockades are a way of life and many travellers find themselves trapped and unable to leave certain areas. The difficult relationship with the Chileans is also evident and a 2-0 defeat in a football match at the weekend only increased the tension. But the locals certainly know how to party, I´ve witnessed numerous fiestas with unbelievable traditional costumes and dances.
I have also been fortunate enough to live with a local family since I arrived here in Sucre and although it was somewhat of a challenge when I first moved in, I have benefited hugely from immersing myself into their culture which is so incredibly different from life in England. The family is terribly important and it´s not unusual to have more than 3 generations living under the same roof. Lunch is the main meal of the day and I enjoy sitting around the table with my family discussing as much as possible to practice my language skills.
After a few months of packing my bag every day and moving fairly quickly through different countries, it´s a luxury to stay in one place for some time and I now feel very at home in Sucre. I start work at the orphanage next Monday and hope to continue with my Spanish classes so I look forward to the next month in Bolivia.
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Bolivia is a fascinating country, the hemisphere´s highest and most isolated, the poorest in South America and also the most indigenous with over 60% of the population claiming indigenous heritage. The one thing that Bolivia lacks is beaches, having lost it´s coastline to Chile during the War of the Pacific in 1879-83, leaving the country landlocked. I have spent most of my time here in and around Sucre but am looking forward to exploring more in the coming weeks.
The political situation in Bolivia at present is unstable and I am yet to meet any local who has anything positive to say about their first indigenous president, Evo Morales. Protests and marches are a favourite pastime of the Bolivianos as I discovered on my way from the airport as we dodged fires and debris on the roads. Blockades are a way of life and many travellers find themselves trapped and unable to leave certain areas. The difficult relationship with the Chileans is also evident and a 2-0 defeat in a football match at the weekend only increased the tension. But the locals certainly know how to party, I´ve witnessed numerous fiestas with unbelievable traditional costumes and dances.
I have also been fortunate enough to live with a local family since I arrived here in Sucre and although it was somewhat of a challenge when I first moved in, I have benefited hugely from immersing myself into their culture which is so incredibly different from life in England. The family is terribly important and it´s not unusual to have more than 3 generations living under the same roof. Lunch is the main meal of the day and I enjoy sitting around the table with my family discussing as much as possible to practice my language skills.
After a few months of packing my bag every day and moving fairly quickly through different countries, it´s a luxury to stay in one place for some time and I now feel very at home in Sucre. I start work at the orphanage next Monday and hope to continue with my Spanish classes so I look forward to the next month in Bolivia.
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Saturday, 17 May 2008
Pure New Zealand
Well I left some good friends in Wellington and again remembered the worst side of travelling - saying goodbye, but I knew the South Island was going to live up to my high expectations and it certainly has. The ferry crossing to Picton was incredibly bumpy and after 3 hours we arrived at the ferry terminal. I took the bus down through the Marlborough Valley where we sampled some very agreeable Riesling & Rose wines and it would have been remiss of me not to taste the famous Havelock Greenshell mussels, they were delicious. So a pretty good introduction to the South Island before making our way down to Nelson, gateway to the Abel Tasman National Park. The drop in temperature was noticeable at this stage and I needed to purchase a few extra items of clothing. From here, I worked my way down the West Coast which I can honestly say has some of the most stunning scenery I have seen to date. The Nelson Lakes National Park was breathtaking but even I wasn't brave enough to take a dip in the freezing waters of Lake Rotoiti. Arriving in Westport, I decided to give the quad biking a try at Buller Gorge and wasn't quite sure why when I was psyching myself up to drive down a vertical slope of mud without flipping the bike! On to Tauranga Bay where we witnessed one of New Zealand's largest seal colonies before arriving at the Pancake Rocks & Blowholes (named because the limestone stacks have been eroded over thousands of years to resemble giant piles of neatly stacked pancakes). The noise was deafening when the blowholes exploded and I was glad to be watching from above. Moving down through Greymouth to Lake Mahinapua, we prepared ourselves for one of the legendary 'Poo Parties' - our fancy dress theme was plastic bags & I was obviously with some very creative travellers, the outfits were unbelievable, my attempt to make a dress from a chocolate scented bin liner earned me the prize of a Jagerbomb (I am now hooked) and we also sampled some of the famous West Coast venison (or as they refer to it - bambi). Franz Josef was my next stop and I continued to put myself outside my comfort zone by taking a helicopter ride up to the Fox Glacier (I think I am slowly overcoming my fear of flying) and then hiked through brilliant blue ice caves and pinnacles for a couple of hours, another one of my highlights so far. The reflection of Mount Cook on Lake Matheson on our way to Wanaka was beautiful, the only regret was that I was a month too early for the ski season. Set on the edge of Lake Wanaka and surrounded by the spectacular scenery of Mount Aspiring National Park, this relaxed small town was somewhere I felt I could settle. Queenstown was the next destination and I knew this was going to be a party town. We stopped at the Kawarau Bungy site for one of our group to throw themselves off the original bungy bridge and I surprised myself at having the urge to jump, but then I remembered my fear when I jumped all those years ago and decided against it. I did, however, manage to throw myself off a platform 109m high and freefall for 60m (reaching 150kph) on the shotover canyon swing. I was terrified and took a while to jump but enjoyed it so much I went straight back up and did another one sitting on a chair and falling backwards - awesome. Luging is another activity you just have to try when you're here, the ride up to the track on the top of the mountain on the gondola is another fantastic experience. Queenstown has been tough on my heart and my credit card so a day cruising on the beautiful Milford Sound was just what I needed yesterday. My last stop will be Christchurch in a couple of days and then I leave NZ to head for South America. My travels in this country have been so enjoyable, I shall never forget the scenery and all the crazy activities I've done but I'm looking forward to the next adventure.
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Monday, 28 April 2008
Kia Ora from NZ
Well my first couple of weeks in the Land of the Long White Cloud have again been action-packed. There's a reason New Zealand is known as the adventure capital of the world, who would have thought I would throw myself out of a plane at 15,000 ft with a complete stranger strapped to my back and a smile on my face.... there must be something in the water. Just to keep the adrenaline pumping I spent five hours black water rafting in the Waitomo Caves, one of NZ's famously invented action sports. The adventure starts with a 35m abseil through a very small hole in the pitch black, a terrifying fly down a zip wire and ends with a jump from a great height into the subterranean river of the aptly-named 'Abyss'. I think this was possibly one of the highlights of my travels so far as I let the water carry me through the caves in total darkness while all around was the amazing twinkling of thousands of glow-worms, a memory that will stay for a long time.
The Tongariro Crossing is supposedly one of the best one day hikes in the world and after 6 hours of pretty tough walking the sense of achievement was huge. I'm not a huge fan of The Lord of the Rings films but it's hard to escape the film locations as you travel around and Ngauruhoe or 'Mount Doom' was quite spectacular. The Emerald Lakes really were emerald and although the weather came in very fast, we had some fabulous views. I've heard the saying of 'four seasons in one day' on many occasions and it is so true. Unfortunately I experienced this on my way to Muriwai Beach on the north west coast, famous for its gannet colony - after driving through torrential rain, a 2 minute walk outside the car proved rather silly and resulted in the drive back to Auckland in underwear! Minutes earlier and I'm sure we would have been a hit by a number of trees that littered the road on our way back. The news that evening reported a number of deaths in the area so I think we were very lucky.
So I have covered most of the North Island now from Auckland up to the beautiful Bay of Islands and then down to Wellington (with its beehive parliamentary building) and seen some spectacular (and very diverse) scenery along the way. From the geo-thermal pools in Rotorua to the world's largest volcanic lake in Taupo. Much of the countryside reminds me of England and in particular Devon but what strikes me about the cities in this country is the lack of people, the population of 4 million seems lost on this amount of land.
I've been lucky enough to be welcomed into a local Marae - a sacred Maori meeting house treated with a huge amount of respect, and I have learned so much about the Maori culture. The welcome ritual (te powhiri) I found extremely intimidating and wondered how Captain Cook must have felt when he took his first steps on the land and experienced the strange looking inhabitants all those years ago. It all ends on a friendly note once the locals have accepted that the visitors pose no threat and the hongi (pressing of noses) is performed. Their traditional method of cooking food in the ground over hot river stones (hangi) results in an absolute feast and it's difficult not to get caught up in the Maori passion for life. I was also fortunate to be taught the poi dance by a local Maori woman which involves swinging balls tied on the end of a cord to the rhythm of music. I didn't master the haka but was surprised at how powerful the dance was when it is right in front of you and I now understand how most rugby teams feel when they play the All Blacks. I haven't caught a rugby match yet but have certainly been involved in lengthy discussions on their national team who have an almost mythical status - it's one of the favourite topics here.
Tomorrow I catch the ferry across to the South Island which I'm informed is even more spectacular than the North so I look forward to more adventures and especially visiting the Marlborough region to sample some of my favourite Sauvignon Blanc..........
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The Tongariro Crossing is supposedly one of the best one day hikes in the world and after 6 hours of pretty tough walking the sense of achievement was huge. I'm not a huge fan of The Lord of the Rings films but it's hard to escape the film locations as you travel around and Ngauruhoe or 'Mount Doom' was quite spectacular. The Emerald Lakes really were emerald and although the weather came in very fast, we had some fabulous views. I've heard the saying of 'four seasons in one day' on many occasions and it is so true. Unfortunately I experienced this on my way to Muriwai Beach on the north west coast, famous for its gannet colony - after driving through torrential rain, a 2 minute walk outside the car proved rather silly and resulted in the drive back to Auckland in underwear! Minutes earlier and I'm sure we would have been a hit by a number of trees that littered the road on our way back. The news that evening reported a number of deaths in the area so I think we were very lucky.
So I have covered most of the North Island now from Auckland up to the beautiful Bay of Islands and then down to Wellington (with its beehive parliamentary building) and seen some spectacular (and very diverse) scenery along the way. From the geo-thermal pools in Rotorua to the world's largest volcanic lake in Taupo. Much of the countryside reminds me of England and in particular Devon but what strikes me about the cities in this country is the lack of people, the population of 4 million seems lost on this amount of land.
I've been lucky enough to be welcomed into a local Marae - a sacred Maori meeting house treated with a huge amount of respect, and I have learned so much about the Maori culture. The welcome ritual (te powhiri) I found extremely intimidating and wondered how Captain Cook must have felt when he took his first steps on the land and experienced the strange looking inhabitants all those years ago. It all ends on a friendly note once the locals have accepted that the visitors pose no threat and the hongi (pressing of noses) is performed. Their traditional method of cooking food in the ground over hot river stones (hangi) results in an absolute feast and it's difficult not to get caught up in the Maori passion for life. I was also fortunate to be taught the poi dance by a local Maori woman which involves swinging balls tied on the end of a cord to the rhythm of music. I didn't master the haka but was surprised at how powerful the dance was when it is right in front of you and I now understand how most rugby teams feel when they play the All Blacks. I haven't caught a rugby match yet but have certainly been involved in lengthy discussions on their national team who have an almost mythical status - it's one of the favourite topics here.
Tomorrow I catch the ferry across to the South Island which I'm informed is even more spectacular than the North so I look forward to more adventures and especially visiting the Marlborough region to sample some of my favourite Sauvignon Blanc..........
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Thursday, 10 April 2008
Sun, Sea & Surf
My last weeks have been spent just north of the Gold Coast in a beautiful part of Australia and I've managed to cover much of the surrounding area. I've certainly been lucky with my time on the water, enjoying trips out in some beautiful boats and had an excellent teacher who introduced me to the world of knots - I am now proficient in the double sheet bend and the clove hitch! Motoring along the Broadwater between the mainland and South Stradbroke Island gave me the opportunity to view the 'Palazzo Versace' and, more impressively, its marina. What a fabulous collection of extremely expensive looking vessels.
Further down the coast, I'm not a particular fan of Surfers Paradise and I'm quite sure it lives up to its name of 'Australia's favourite playground', but it's definitely worth a visit if only to experience the bronzed Aussie lifesavers. I didn't realise quite how busy these guys are on a daily basis and the ocean seems so much more dangerous over here with rip tides and idiotic tourists. I became a temporary member of The Southport Surf Club for the day and enjoyed breakfast overlooking Main Beach while watching the TV cameras filming the latest rescues. A walk along the beach afterwards reminded me of the dangerous inhabitants of this country as I attempted to avoid the stingers littering the sand. I saw first hand the results of a brush with one of these jellyfish as a young bodyboarder was comforted by his dad after a particularly nasty sting.
From the stunning beaches associated with Oz, it' easy to forget there is so much more to see here. The National Parks are spectacular too and the treetop walk I took through Lamington was beautiful. Part of the Gondwana Rainforests of Australia World Heritage Area, it includes the most extensive areas of subtropical rainforest in the world. The temperature drops quite dramatically as you enter the rainforest and the only noises breaking the damp quiet come from the outstanding wildlife. The birds are so very different from back home, shocking colours and distinctive calls. Real creatures of habit, a huge flock of corellas flies over the house at exactly the same time every evening.
So my time in Australia is at an end, I know I will be back again and who knows, maybe even as a resident? The next stop is Auckland and my bags have been packed with extreme caution. I am keen to avoid the experience I had entering Oz - the wooden gifts I bought in Thailand and the dirt on my walking boots earned me a severe telling off from the customs officer although luckily I escaped the $500 fine and an extremely embarassing appearance on the hugely popular TV programme 'Border Police'.
So I look forward to my arrival in the land of the Maoris and my next adventures.
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Further down the coast, I'm not a particular fan of Surfers Paradise and I'm quite sure it lives up to its name of 'Australia's favourite playground', but it's definitely worth a visit if only to experience the bronzed Aussie lifesavers. I didn't realise quite how busy these guys are on a daily basis and the ocean seems so much more dangerous over here with rip tides and idiotic tourists. I became a temporary member of The Southport Surf Club for the day and enjoyed breakfast overlooking Main Beach while watching the TV cameras filming the latest rescues. A walk along the beach afterwards reminded me of the dangerous inhabitants of this country as I attempted to avoid the stingers littering the sand. I saw first hand the results of a brush with one of these jellyfish as a young bodyboarder was comforted by his dad after a particularly nasty sting.
From the stunning beaches associated with Oz, it' easy to forget there is so much more to see here. The National Parks are spectacular too and the treetop walk I took through Lamington was beautiful. Part of the Gondwana Rainforests of Australia World Heritage Area, it includes the most extensive areas of subtropical rainforest in the world. The temperature drops quite dramatically as you enter the rainforest and the only noises breaking the damp quiet come from the outstanding wildlife. The birds are so very different from back home, shocking colours and distinctive calls. Real creatures of habit, a huge flock of corellas flies over the house at exactly the same time every evening.
So my time in Australia is at an end, I know I will be back again and who knows, maybe even as a resident? The next stop is Auckland and my bags have been packed with extreme caution. I am keen to avoid the experience I had entering Oz - the wooden gifts I bought in Thailand and the dirt on my walking boots earned me a severe telling off from the customs officer although luckily I escaped the $500 fine and an extremely embarassing appearance on the hugely popular TV programme 'Border Police'.
So I look forward to my arrival in the land of the Maoris and my next adventures.
A prize an hour, 24 hours a day. Try Big Snap now!
Tuesday, 18 March 2008
A sojourn Down Under
My last update in Thailand feels like a lifetime ago and I'm not sure where my first month in Australia has gone. From the basic accommodation I have been used to since I left England, I have been completely spoilt staying in luxury with friends and family.
Flying into Sydney was as spectacular as ever and I wasted no time in taking the ferry across the harbour to Manly; the view of the bridge and the opera house never fails to take my breath away. Walking along Manly beach reminded me of how wonderful the outdoors lifestyle is here with so much going on; volleyball, surfing, jogging and general healthy living. After a fantastic week catching up with friends in Sydney and visiting beautiful beaches, my next stop was Brisbane where I met my dad to drive up to the Sunshine Coast together to meet up with my mum, brother and his family. Noosa is definitely one of my favourite spots in Oz and it was great to spend time there with my family again. Kelly Slater was in town for the Festival of Surfing so I thought I'd test my skills at the local surf school. I was slightly embarrassed when my young nephews and niece stood up on their boards first time and continued to display what can only be described as perfect balance while Auntie Katie struggled at the back. I decided at that point not to try anything new while I was with them and withdrew from the fishing and go-karting competitions we had organised.
Wine-tasting is a must in Australia and driving through the Mary River Valley, we visited the Sunshine Coast's oldest vineyard for a sampling session. The scenery was spectacular and driving on up through the Glass House Mountains National Park there was a noticeable (and welcome) drop in temperature. A trip on the sugar cane train at The Big Pineapple took us through tranquil rainforest and a huge array of plants & fruits, I now know how to grow a pineapple. Stopping off at the koala and fauna sanctuary reminded me that the Aussie native bear is actually not that cute and cuddly but we enjoyed watching the kangaroos and their joeys.
So after ten days of fun, full-on Aussie cuisine & top notch wines we headed down the coast.
From Noosa to Sanctuary Cove, where the preferred method of transport is the golf buggy, another world greeted me. Swimming in the lagoon of the stunning five-star hotel, the poverty of India seemed worlds away and I reminded myself how fortunate I am.
Back up the coast I shared my birthday celebrations with my brother at the multi award-winning Sirromet winery at Mount Cotton, another chance to taste some of Australia's finest and as we took in the breathtaking views over the vineyards I knew this would be a birthday to remember.
My stay in Brisbane finished with a visit to the Queensland Museum as a volunteer with Manly State School where I learned everything I need to know about dinosaurs, dung beetles and 6 year old children (who I suspect are rather more difficult to control than any other creatures).
So after saying goodbye to my family I am now staying with another good friend just north of the Gold Coast and looking forward to the coming weeks in the land of Oz.
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Flying into Sydney was as spectacular as ever and I wasted no time in taking the ferry across the harbour to Manly; the view of the bridge and the opera house never fails to take my breath away. Walking along Manly beach reminded me of how wonderful the outdoors lifestyle is here with so much going on; volleyball, surfing, jogging and general healthy living. After a fantastic week catching up with friends in Sydney and visiting beautiful beaches, my next stop was Brisbane where I met my dad to drive up to the Sunshine Coast together to meet up with my mum, brother and his family. Noosa is definitely one of my favourite spots in Oz and it was great to spend time there with my family again. Kelly Slater was in town for the Festival of Surfing so I thought I'd test my skills at the local surf school. I was slightly embarrassed when my young nephews and niece stood up on their boards first time and continued to display what can only be described as perfect balance while Auntie Katie struggled at the back. I decided at that point not to try anything new while I was with them and withdrew from the fishing and go-karting competitions we had organised.
Wine-tasting is a must in Australia and driving through the Mary River Valley, we visited the Sunshine Coast's oldest vineyard for a sampling session. The scenery was spectacular and driving on up through the Glass House Mountains National Park there was a noticeable (and welcome) drop in temperature. A trip on the sugar cane train at The Big Pineapple took us through tranquil rainforest and a huge array of plants & fruits, I now know how to grow a pineapple. Stopping off at the koala and fauna sanctuary reminded me that the Aussie native bear is actually not that cute and cuddly but we enjoyed watching the kangaroos and their joeys.
So after ten days of fun, full-on Aussie cuisine & top notch wines we headed down the coast.
From Noosa to Sanctuary Cove, where the preferred method of transport is the golf buggy, another world greeted me. Swimming in the lagoon of the stunning five-star hotel, the poverty of India seemed worlds away and I reminded myself how fortunate I am.
Back up the coast I shared my birthday celebrations with my brother at the multi award-winning Sirromet winery at Mount Cotton, another chance to taste some of Australia's finest and as we took in the breathtaking views over the vineyards I knew this would be a birthday to remember.
My stay in Brisbane finished with a visit to the Queensland Museum as a volunteer with Manly State School where I learned everything I need to know about dinosaurs, dung beetles and 6 year old children (who I suspect are rather more difficult to control than any other creatures).
So after saying goodbye to my family I am now staying with another good friend just north of the Gold Coast and looking forward to the coming weeks in the land of Oz.
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Thursday, 14 February 2008
'The Beach'
Well my last couple of weeks in Thailand have given me the opportunity to explore some of its most beautiful islands. Koh Samet is located in the Rayong province and a favourite haunt of the Thais due to its proximity to Bangkok. The beaches here are powder white and the sea perfect for swimming and snorkelling. My dad would have been proud of my efforts with a fishing line, it was that big - honestly - and one of the highlights was the fireshow on the beach which offered added excitement when a pole of fire accidently shot in the direction of the audience.
I also managed to get to the Cambodian border to extend my visa which was an experience in itself. I've heard stories from fellow travellers about how tourists have been refused entry back into Thailand and I must admit I was slightly nervous about letting my passport out of my sight with an absolute stranger. Luckily all went smoothly and after another stamp in my passport I was back on the road to the island.
A number of bus journeys later, I was heading down to the Andaman coast with the intention of staying on Koh Phi Phi, famous for its appearance in the film 'The Beach'. Something inside me made me jump off the ferry as we were passing a small island called Koh Jum, I'm not sure why I threw my backpack into a longtail boat from a great height but I must have sensed that this would be somewhere quite special and I was not disappointed. What greeted me was a stretch of deserted palm-fringed beach and a few bungalows set amongst the trees. With no electricity, the island doesn't appeal to everyone, thank goodness, and for a time I'm sure this will remain a hidden gem. My time here was spent in my hammock, swimming in the crystal clear water and tasting the excellent Thai cuisine. It was a welcome departure from the hectic first few weeks in Thailand and I could not drag myself away despite several attempts to move on, that's the wonderful thing about travelling.
I did manage a day trip to Phi Phi which was probably enough - 'The Beach' as featured in the film was stunning although teeming with tourists as expected. After the devastation caused by the tsunami which hit both sides of the island, the development is well under way again and the visitors are back in their millions.
So it is back again to Bangkok to end my travels in Thailand. What a wonderful country it is and I will remember the most friendly people and spectacular scenery.
My next stop is one of my favourite cities - Sydney - and I look forward to the wonderful trip across the harbour to Manly to visit friends.
Think you know your TV, music and film? Try Search Charades!
I also managed to get to the Cambodian border to extend my visa which was an experience in itself. I've heard stories from fellow travellers about how tourists have been refused entry back into Thailand and I must admit I was slightly nervous about letting my passport out of my sight with an absolute stranger. Luckily all went smoothly and after another stamp in my passport I was back on the road to the island.
A number of bus journeys later, I was heading down to the Andaman coast with the intention of staying on Koh Phi Phi, famous for its appearance in the film 'The Beach'. Something inside me made me jump off the ferry as we were passing a small island called Koh Jum, I'm not sure why I threw my backpack into a longtail boat from a great height but I must have sensed that this would be somewhere quite special and I was not disappointed. What greeted me was a stretch of deserted palm-fringed beach and a few bungalows set amongst the trees. With no electricity, the island doesn't appeal to everyone, thank goodness, and for a time I'm sure this will remain a hidden gem. My time here was spent in my hammock, swimming in the crystal clear water and tasting the excellent Thai cuisine. It was a welcome departure from the hectic first few weeks in Thailand and I could not drag myself away despite several attempts to move on, that's the wonderful thing about travelling.
I did manage a day trip to Phi Phi which was probably enough - 'The Beach' as featured in the film was stunning although teeming with tourists as expected. After the devastation caused by the tsunami which hit both sides of the island, the development is well under way again and the visitors are back in their millions.
So it is back again to Bangkok to end my travels in Thailand. What a wonderful country it is and I will remember the most friendly people and spectacular scenery.
My next stop is one of my favourite cities - Sydney - and I look forward to the wonderful trip across the harbour to Manly to visit friends.
Think you know your TV, music and film? Try Search Charades!
Monday, 28 January 2008
Real Thailand
My last week has been spent trekking through the rainforest of Phu Toey National Park in the Kanchanaburi province, approximately 130km north of Bangkok. It was back to basics again, camping in traditional villages in tents (I am now somewhat expert in pitching tents). A lack of drinking water and toilet faciltiies did nothing to dampen our spirits as we showered in waterfalls and experienced life in the Karen hill tribe villages. We spent an afternoon exploring the local caves and I didn't realise it was possible to squeeze through such small areas (caving is definitely not for the claustrophobic). We had bats for company (plus a whole of other creatures I'm sure) and I was rather relieved when I saw daylight filtering through the rocks above. My final day was spent at Lampthern Dam (the largest in Thailand) where we swam and tried unsuccessfully to remove the dirt engrained in our bodies. Our tents were pitched in the most picturesque spot overlooking the water and dinner was taken with a very hospitable local family in their beautiful house. I managed an early start one morning to watch a fabulous sunrise and most of the evenings were spent around the campfire. This was real Thailand and I have no doubt I will be visiting this amazing country again.
So after a night in a hotel with a hot shower (heaven) and a very painful Thai massage (hell), I am now chilling out in Ko Samet National Park, an island in the Gulf of Thailand. My leg muscles are looking forward to a recovery period after the battering they took during the trek and the coming week on the beach is most welcome.
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So after a night in a hotel with a hot shower (heaven) and a very painful Thai massage (hell), I am now chilling out in Ko Samet National Park, an island in the Gulf of Thailand. My leg muscles are looking forward to a recovery period after the battering they took during the trek and the coming week on the beach is most welcome.
Everything in one place. All new Windows Live!
Saturday, 19 January 2008
Budding Buddhist
I knew that living alongside the Buddhist monks would be something not many would have the chance of experiencing and I feel incredibly privileged to have had the opportunity to do so. I do like the principles of buddhism - the lack of desire and therefore the lack of suffering and the discipline shown by the monks is admirable. I'm not sure I could cope with the 5am starts every day (not being a morning person) or the fasting between midday and dawn, but I felt strangely peaceful during my stay. The monks have no possessions and rely on others to survive but in a hugely devout buddhist country, there is obviously no lack of support from the lay Buddhists. We began each day by walking the streets in the dark collecting alms - the respect given by a lay Buddhist to a Buddhist monk. The monk then prays for the giver's family and although I did have some doubts as to whether this could be portrayed as charity, it became obvious that the act of alms giving helped to connect the giver to the monk and all that he represents. It surprised me how much we had collected in an hour and a half, and although only ten monks were living in the Wat Songphinong temple I was assured that none of the food would go to waste and it would be distributed to those in need. Before we ate the offerings we took part in the chanting, the traditional means of preparing the mind for meditation. I have used meditation before but had forgotten how effective it is in calming the mind. Walking meditation was a new practice for me and the hectic Western world became a distant memory as I passed time in this way. The days were spent cleaning, chanting and meditating and I felt as though I was cocooned in a land far away from the one I know. My stay has encouraged me to explore the buddhist way of life in more detail so I am now engrossed in text books.
I'm finding it difficult to keep up with the pace of my travelling and the next week will see me trekking through central Thailand, so an entirely different experience again.
She said what? About who? Shameful celebrity quotes on Search Star!
I'm finding it difficult to keep up with the pace of my travelling and the next week will see me trekking through central Thailand, so an entirely different experience again.
She said what? About who? Shameful celebrity quotes on Search Star!
Tuesday, 15 January 2008
Touchdown in Thailand
Arriving at Bangkok airport, I immediately noticed how beautifully clean it was after the dirt of India and it was nothing like the airport I remembered as a naive backpacker 18 years ago. Checking in to my hotel, I felt as though I was in 5 star luxury and the toilet paper in the bathroom was the icing on the cake. Bangkok is such an exciting city and I hit the tourist trail straight away by visiting the Grand Palace, I then took the Chao Phraya Express along the river and found the famous Khao San road which was, as expected, backpacker city. Negotiating the traffic in a tuk-tuk is not dissimilar to the transport in India and I'm sure cramming six of us in was not the best idea. Chatuchak market is supposed to be the best one here but the Thais are much harder to bargain with than the Indians, I still managed to make some good savings. I don't usually make a habit of eating food cooked on the side of the road but I made an exception and tasted some excellent pad thai (with chicken - absolute heaven). Unfortunately the King's sister died while I was in Bangkok so much of the entertainment ceased as a mark of respect - we were disappointed not to experience one of the legendary 'Lady-Boy' shows. However, I did manage to fit in a Thai massage, I don't know where the tiny girls get their strength from but I felt fantastic afterwards.
The backpacker trail continued for me as I caught a bus and a ferry to Koh Phangan - home of the Full Moon Party. Did some amazing diving at Sail Rock just south of Koh Tao, unfortunately the local whale shark didn't put in an appearance but we did see moray eels and stingrays. Thank goodness Thailand allows anyone to dive without evidence of any qualifications - I'm sure my open water certification I attained in 1990 is well out of date now but I need all the practice I can get before I arrive in Ecuador to begin my marine conservation project.
I fell in love with Koh Phangan - not the southern party resort in Haad Rin but the eastern part of the island has some of the most beautiful beaches I've ever seen, white sand and completely deserted. Ko Samui is again an island of contrasts, I visted Hat Bo Phut on the north side which was stunning (apart from the occasional jelly fish). We had a slightly hairy moment when we thought we were stranded but luckily managed to wade our way out with backpacks above our heads, much to the amusement of the sun worshippers in the resort behind.
So after travelling the backpacker trail for a week, I am now living in an Eco House in Singburi (two hours north of Bangkok), an area totally unaffacted by tourism. I was prepared for the locals to find us strange and after the initial staring we encountered, we are finding the Thais here extremely friendly with huge smiles.
What an action-packed first week in Thailand it has been, now I am looking forward to the coming week and understanding more about the Buddhist way of life when we live alongside the monks in the temple.
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The backpacker trail continued for me as I caught a bus and a ferry to Koh Phangan - home of the Full Moon Party. Did some amazing diving at Sail Rock just south of Koh Tao, unfortunately the local whale shark didn't put in an appearance but we did see moray eels and stingrays. Thank goodness Thailand allows anyone to dive without evidence of any qualifications - I'm sure my open water certification I attained in 1990 is well out of date now but I need all the practice I can get before I arrive in Ecuador to begin my marine conservation project.
I fell in love with Koh Phangan - not the southern party resort in Haad Rin but the eastern part of the island has some of the most beautiful beaches I've ever seen, white sand and completely deserted. Ko Samui is again an island of contrasts, I visted Hat Bo Phut on the north side which was stunning (apart from the occasional jelly fish). We had a slightly hairy moment when we thought we were stranded but luckily managed to wade our way out with backpacks above our heads, much to the amusement of the sun worshippers in the resort behind.
So after travelling the backpacker trail for a week, I am now living in an Eco House in Singburi (two hours north of Bangkok), an area totally unaffacted by tourism. I was prepared for the locals to find us strange and after the initial staring we encountered, we are finding the Thais here extremely friendly with huge smiles.
What an action-packed first week in Thailand it has been, now I am looking forward to the coming week and understanding more about the Buddhist way of life when we live alongside the monks in the temple.
Think you know your TV, music and film? Try Search Charades!
Monday, 7 January 2008
Goodbye India
During my final two weeks in
The teaching definitely became easier towards the end so a big thank you to everyone who e-mailed me with suggestions (I did not have to resort to your comments Crass Aussie – but thank you anyway!). My wonderful mother sent over some great materials which the children loved, the giant cannon and balloons went down a storm. It seems odd that I will never see the children again but they now have a new volunteer so I'm sure she is carrying on the good work. I was wondering what to write in my report before I left but when I look back on what I achieved, one of the most important things I gave to them was affection which some of the kids were so clearly lacking. A number of very violent children joined the class in the last week and it was difficult to control them but I think all they really needed was a bit of attention. The Christmas period was very quiet with only a handful turning up but it meant they did get a bit of extra tuition.
I did manage to get to Palolem for Christmas, it felt like a holiday and was good to get away from my workplace although I still find Christmas in the sun rather strange. The beachshack we rented was perfect and cost ten pounds between four of us so another Indian bargain.
I also managed to attend a henna workshop so am now an expert in body art (almost) and the cooking class I'm hoping will encourage me to attempt a proper curry when I get home.
I'm not sure what I will remember most about my time in India, the crazy driving (our driver hit a motorbike then a couple of days later put the jeep in a ditch during my last week), the colourful clothes and jewelry, the spicy food, the despair of so many Indians living in poverty or the smiles on the faces of my lovely schoolchildren.
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